Perfume is Pleasure

Perfume is Pleasure: Raymond, you have been the force behind some hugely successful commercial fragrances including Happy by Clinique. Now Happy is one of those scents I will invariably stop a woman to compliment. What are the names of some of the others?

Raymond: The first fine fragrance I ever worked on was White Diamonds. As of lately, I have been designing all the new Abercrombie, Abercrombie and Fitch and Ruehl fragrances. I have designed the IZOD fragrance as well. In my prior position I was responsible for all the Clinique fragrances, Tommy Hilfiger, Origins and Aramis fragrances. Fragrances like Happy, Happy for Men, Happy Heart, Happy to Be, Happy in Bloom are all my designs. I was fortunate to design some of the more creative fragrances for Tommy Hilfiger including True Star for Him and Her. There have been many but a portion of the credit belongs to the greatest perfumers in the world I work with. What we do together is a true collaboration. I enjoy bringing them to where they would not think to go …

Perfume is Pleasure: Would you tell me a bit more about your new theory on fragrance marketing? The other day, you mentioned that you don’t think fragrance families and ingredient marketing are the right answer. These are tools I use as the point of departure in my fragrance matchmaking process. I am seriously provoked! So what can you tell me?

Raymond: Not sure I would refer to it as fragrance marketing… I see it more or less as an evolving way of communicating scent and what we smell. A language, which enables the user to better communicate their needs or desires from a scent. The tools that you use are excellent tools. I would prefer we taking it one step further. I do believe in fragrance families, and it is always important to know why it falls under the classification. However, I blur those lines in my work and therefore need an additional method. I believe that Michael Edwards is a nice modern approach and I too use his books. However, as a person who designs fragrances I need to go further and this is what I will share in seminars and training clinics.

Perfume is Pleasure: Ahhh. So we’ll all have to stay tuned. Of course, Raymond, as a fragrance matchmaker, I consider the mood of the scent and the style of a woman in addition to the families and ingredients, but it is clear that you have some fascinating twists on this. I am impatient to learn more! In the meantime, how do you think the industry will respond to your approach?

Raymond: If there are companies, retail establishments, beauty advisors or merely our consumers who are interested in the world of perfumery and a method that is use to design and explain a fragrance based on the journey used to create… than I feel it will be embraced with open arms. My method has worked at certain Clinique counters and they experienced incremental sales increases. My approach and style is different in this industry, my fragrances represent a modern approach to perfumery. I’m not say it is better, I’m merely looking to offer the consumer another option that doesn’t exist.

Perfume is Pleasure: We’re beginning to see more informed consumers demanding greater transparency about the contents of the juice. How do you feel perfume shoppers will respond to your approach? Will it truly help them find a scent they will love?

Raymond: Interesting question, when one visits a museum I don’t ever recall a key explaining each color that was used from the palette. When I see an ad for an automobile I do not recall ever reading about the components and the production process. When I buy wine, an experience is always parlayed to me that helps me to understand what I will taste. When I buy clothing, I care about fit, style and I how I feel wearing it. Fragrances are liquid emotion, I design fragrance based upon sensations, emotions and experiences we come in touch with every day. So yes, I can and have helped one find what they desire. Plus, my fragrances are enveloping; how could one not fall in love with them…once they understand them. The time has come for the fluff to disappear in this industry! I have to ask those that recite ingredients, does the consumer really care…I have done many in-store events… I’m not convinced!

Perfume is Pleasure: Any other new projects of note?

Raymond: I hope so…We are in tough times…and bringing a new sensorial journey is always on my mind… to caress a woman…touching her through scent is my pleasure in life… allowing men to dream, to move them beyond what their father wore is always a challenge I accept. I also have a strong desire to bring the same creativity to branding a space with scent.

Perfume is Pleasure. Thanks so much for this interview, Raymond! Will you promise to keep me informed?

Raymond: Absolutely, I look forward to chatting with you again… Good luck my friend…It has been a pleasure.

The Fragrance Foundation is the non-profit educational arm of the international fragrance industry. Rochelle Bloom has been President of Foundation since 2001. Before that, she had a rich corporate career in beauty and fragrance. In 1979, she launched Prescriptives and served as its Vice President and General Manager for seven years, building it into a major cosmetics brand. In 1986, Rochelle was promoted to Senior Vice President and General Manager of Estée Lauder International, where she tripled sales and quadrupled profit in her 13-year tenure. Under the Lauder umbrella, Rochelle also served as President of Bobbi Brown Professional Cosmetics, Inc., ushered the brand to its position of global prestige.

Perfume is Pleasure: What makes you most proud about the fragrance industry?

Rochelle:  I think the collaborative nature of the industry, which are strong competitors, but always think of themselves as an extended family and reach out to each other very often. It is not cut throat!

Perfume is Pleasure:  How are you seeing the industry innovate to assure that consumers continue to enjoy scent even in today’s challenging economic climate?

Rochelle:  Right now, the industry is in the mode of learning as much as possible about the (new) consumer, their desires and needs, and how they can remain relevant during these times. We realize that sampling takes on new meaning and smaller sizes are also important. It is a new business model that we all have to understand and accept before forging ahead.

Perfume is Pleasure:  What has given you most hope for the industry?

Rochelle:  Companies’ willingness to change. They are more willing to listen and learn from the consumer. In the past, the marketers thought they knew all of the answers. In this environment, the rules are broken and they are willing to start again. What is hopeful is that out of bad times comes good…even brilliant ideas. I am hopeful this will be the case in the Fragrance Industry.

Perfume is Pleasure:  For a long time, we’ve seen consumers behind the scenes with movies and into the kitchen with celebrity chefs. We would never buy a car before consulting Consumer Reports. But perfume has traditionally been clothed in mystique. Now, knowledgeable bloggers, critics like Luca Turin and Chandler Burr and even the perfume-lovers’ group Sniffapalooza are shining bright lights on the inner world of fragrance development and marketing. Have we lost something in the process? Though it is difficult to get the genie back in the bottle, does the industry yearn for days of a little more allure and a little less information?

Rochelle:  No. Informative and knowledgeable consumers are good. I think that is not the problem. The problem is that there are too many fragrances introduced, confused consumers and the aspiration and emotional connection has been lost. It’s not about critics and knowledgeable consumers, it’s about raising fragrance from a commodity as it is today back to being mysterious, sexy, and alluring. I also want to add that there is a lot of bad information out there. Fragrance gets a bad rap…..not good for the environment, can’t wear to work or school, causes allergies, etc. Consumers are asking for natural or organic fragrance without really knowing what that means. An educated customer is our best customer as Syms used to say. It applies to the fragrance industry as well. We need to stop giving incentives to get people to buy, making it a commodity and not a luxury, sample more, offer more affordable sizes and teach people what fragrance does for their psyche. It will do wonders for the business!!!

Perfume is Pleasure:  Wars about synthetics vs. naturals have erupted. The rhetoric gets pretty hot at times. What do we need to keep clear? Should we focus less on ingredients and more on the spirit of a scent?

Rochelle: It’s all about education. There are very practical reasons why you need both. In some cases, you cannot capture a scent in its natural form. Natural fragrances don’t last long which is a negative to some, etc. Synthetics are not good or bad and the same for naturals. It is just that the words ” natural” or “organic” seem to be the buzzwords for the consumer without knowing why. So I say, we need to educate and not focus less!!!!!

Perfume is Pleasure:  What tips do you have for consumers to get the most pleasure from their perfume?

Rochelle: Apply it correctly. You can go to our website to get all types of tips on how to wear fragrance. Also, find a certified fragrance expert at your local store and work with them on finding fragrance that will complement your current taste in fragrance or try a different form to add to your wardrobe such as a body lotion or shower gel. Also fragrant candles enhance your home life and relax you after a tough day.

Perfume is Pleasure:  Some of us enjoy scent on ourselves and on those around us, while individuals and even lobbying groups who stand for the right for a scent-free environment are increasingly vocal. How did we get to this point? How do we strike the balance?

Rochelle:  It’s about educating the consumer…..and the environmentalists on the facts. There is no reason why people cannot wear fragrance, if they wear it properly and it will not disturb anyone or anything. We have all been assaulted by people who wear too much fragrance, fragrance on their clothes and hair. There is the correct way to wear fragrance in the daytime and in the evening and, again, the better educated the consumer, the less flack the industry will get.

Perfume is Pleasure:  I have done work with youth education on scent and believe this is tremendously important. The Foundation has also taken action in this area. What can you share about your goals and progress?

Rochelle:  I think our efforts working with Weekly Reader to bring the appreciation of scent to our school children. We are just completing a project which will go out to over 5,000 public school teachers as a class lesson about scent which encompasses spelling, reading and writing. There are scratch and sniff elements to the program as well as games etc. This is in addition to our annual career day which is for high school students to learn about the opportunities in our industry.

Perfume is Pleasure: How are you seeing the industry innovate to assure that consumers continue to enjoy scent even in today’s challenging economic climate?

Rochelle:  Right now, the industry is in the mode of learning as much as possible about the new consumer, their desires and needs, and how they can remain relevant during these times. We realize that sampling takes on new meaning and smaller sizes are also important. It is a new business model that we all have to understand and accept before forging ahead.

Perfume is Pleasure: What has personally been most satisfying to you as President of the Fragrance Foundation?

Rochelle:  Bringing The Fragrance Foundation into the 21st Century.

Perfume is Pleasure:  Thank you, Rochelle, for sharing your passion for perfume with us. And thank you for your work to promote the health of this great industry.