Posts tagged with perfume

Perfume and God

May 4th, 2009

David and Ben Smell Smells“Are you teaching this morning?” I asked my husband, a sometimes Sunday school teacher,  when I heard the alarm clock. “Yes, and I really should have asked you to help me with this one.” Turns out, the book of Esther was up, and interactive scent exercises were part of the lesson plan. I scrambled about for frankincense and a variety of essentials. What would Esther do?

You know the story. Nice Jewish girl saves her people from persecution with good perfume. Highlights of this scriptural tale of redemption: “Before a girl’s turn came to go in to King Xerxes, she had to complete twelve months of beauty treatments prescribed for the women, six months with oil of myrrh and six with perfumes and cosmetics…and this is how she would go to the king…In the evening she would go there and in the morning return to another part of the harem…She would not return to the king unless he was pleased with her and summoned her by name…Now the king was attracted to Esther more than to any of the other women, and she won his favor and approval more than any of the other virgins. So he set a royal crown on her head and made her queen instead of Vashti.”

Jimmy reads aloud

The instructional catch was sketchy, but adequate justification for our guessing games with incense, fruity woody and floral scents on paper blotters. As it happens, nowhere in the Biblical account does the name of Yahweh explicitly appear but we know he is there, working behind the scenes. By the same token (play along here), all of our scent strips looked identical, but we know they are scented, and clearly unique. God and curriculum designers work in mysterious ways!

Wake Up to Sillage - The Stories Your Perfume Tells When You’re Not Around

February 27th, 2009

sillage2

Some wear fragrance as a private conversation with self and those close by. Leaning in for a kiss, that’s the time another should detect your fragrance, according to Anya McCoy, who created cult favorite scents Kaffir, Pan and Fairchild and heads the Natural Perfumers Guild. Many are frustrated, however, when their scent goes unnoticed by a broader audience. They expect those compliments to keep flowing even after they’re gone. “Wasn’t it nice when Mona was here? Too bad she left, but at least we have her perfume in the air to remember her by…”

I have close friends in both camps.

Some perfumes that won’t let us forget you:

Addict
Agent Provocateur
Alliage
Aromatics Elixir
Calandre
Coco
Estée
Eternity
Farnesiana
Fracas
Habitana
Opium
Paloma Picasso
Youth Dew
Yvresse

Sillage (pronounced see-yaaaj) is the French word for wake. To see additional recommendations for “great sillage” read Perfume of Life, a playful and informative blog.

Photo by Sara Zarrella, my neighbor at the Grace Ormonde Grand Bridal Show. Sara’s photos make a cameo on this bridal show video by Bruce Cullen at Dream Images - look for a wire cage sporting her great shots. You’ll enjoy the gorgeous runway show, jazzy music and may even catch a glimpse of my home page banner, 16 feet tall!


For The Pet Who Has Everything

February 16th, 2009

Self indulgence has its limits. So when you’ve reached yours, think of others less fortunate. Those furry and hairy individuals lacking the means to obtain perfume and cosmetics you take for granted.

I remember my amusement over last year’s launch of Juicy Criture. OK, my horror, but tinged with amusement. A friend who promotes Liz Claiborne scents including sister Juicy Couture line said she had just put on a Nordstrom event for cats and dogs. Creativity kudos to whomever first cooked up the notion of “dog nail pawlish.”

Until quite recently, I assumed the beauty industry’s interest in four-legged consumers was limited to household pets. But no! Fragrance is coming on strong in the large animal community. Sniffapalooza magazine now features Brandy and its creator Patricia Namm. Patricia’s muse in designing the scent? A palomino horse by the same name. “Horses don’t usually like perfume,” Patricia told a group of fragrance enthusiasts at Sniffapalooza’s New York Fall Ball. But this scent, “with its suggestion of distant fields, rolling aromatic meadows, apple and peach top notes and herbaceous heart notes” appeals to the horsey set, and most importantly, to Brandy himself.

Perfume for pooches. Perfume for ponies. Why didn’t I think of that?

The discerning dog above is reticent about top notes of the L’Artisan Parfumeur scent presented for his approval at New York’s exquisite Aedes de Venustas boutique. Attends le drydown, mon petit chien.


Perfume is Pleasure Interviews Rochelle Bloom, President of The Fragrance Foundation

February 10th, 2009

Rochelle BloomThe Fragrance Foundation is the non-profit educational arm of the international fragrance industry. Rochelle Bloom has been President of Foundation since 2001. Before that, she had a rich corporate career in beauty and fragrance. In 1979, she launched Prescriptives and served as its Vice President and General Manager for seven years, building it into a major cosmetics brand. In 1986, Rochelle was promoted to Senior Vice President and General Manager of Estée Lauder International, where she tripled sales and quadrupled profit in her 13-year tenure. Under the Lauder umbrella, Rochelle also served as President of Bobbi Brown Professional Cosmetics, Inc., ushered the brand to its position of global prestige.

Perfume is Pleasure: What makes you most proud about the fragrance industry?

Rochelle:  I think the collaborative nature of the industry, which are strong competitors, but always think of themselves as an extended family and reach out to each other very often. It is not cut throat!

Perfume is Pleasure:  How are you seeing the industry innovate to assure that consumers continue to enjoy scent even in today’s challenging economic climate?

Rochelle:  Right now, the industry is in the mode of learning as much as possible about the (new) consumer, their desires and needs, and how they can remain relevant during these times. We realize that sampling takes on new meaning and smaller sizes are also important. It is a new business model that we all have to understand and accept before forging ahead.

Perfume is Pleasure:  What has given you most hope for the industry?

Rochelle:  Companies’ willingness to change. They are more willing to listen and learn from the consumer. In the past, the marketers thought they knew all of the answers. In this environment, the rules are broken and they are willing to start again. What is hopeful is that out of bad times comes good…even brilliant ideas. I am hopeful this will be the case in the Fragrance Industry.

Perfume is Pleasure:  For a long time, we’ve seen consumers behind the scenes with movies and into the kitchen with celebrity chefs. We would never buy a car before consulting Consumer Reports. But perfume has traditionally been clothed in mystique. Now, knowledgeable bloggers, critics like Luca Turin and Chandler Burr and even the perfume-lovers’ group Sniffapalooza are shining bright lights on the inner world of fragrance development and marketing. Have we lost something in the process? Though it is difficult to get the genie back in the bottle, does the industry yearn for days of a little more allure and a little less information?

Rochelle:  No. Informative and knowledgeable consumers are good. I think that is not the problem. The problem is that there are too many fragrances introduced, confused consumers and the aspiration and emotional connection has been lost. It’s not about critics and knowledgeable consumers, it’s about raising fragrance from a commodity as it is today back to being mysterious, sexy, and alluring. I also want to add that there is a lot of bad information out there. Fragrance gets a bad rap…..not good for the environment, can’t wear to work or school, causes allergies, etc. Consumers are asking for natural or organic fragrance without really knowing what that means. An educated customer is our best customer as Syms used to say. It applies to the fragrance industry as well. We need to stop giving incentives to get people to buy, making it a commodity and not a luxury, sample more, offer more affordable sizes and teach people what fragrance does for their psyche. It will do wonders for the business!!!

Perfume is Pleasure:  Wars about synthetics vs. naturals have erupted. The rhetoric gets pretty hot at times. What do we need to keep clear? Should we focus less on ingredients and more on the spirit of a scent?

Rochelle: It’s all about education. There are very practical reasons why you need both. In some cases, you cannot capture a scent in its natural form. Natural fragrances don’t last long which is a negative to some, etc. Synthetics are not good or bad and the same for naturals. It is just that the words ” natural” or “organic” seem to be the buzzwords for the consumer without knowing why. So I say, we need to educate and not focus less!!!!!

Perfume is Pleasure:  What tips do you have for consumers to get the most pleasure from their perfume?

Rochelle: Apply it correctly. You can go to our website to get all types of tips on how to wear fragrance. Also, find a certified fragrance expert at your local store and work with them on finding fragrance that will complement your current taste in fragrance or try a different form to add to your wardrobe such as a body lotion or shower gel. Also fragrant candles enhance your home life and relax you after a tough day.

Perfume is Pleasure:  Some of us enjoy scent on ourselves and on those around us, while individuals and even lobbying groups who stand for the right for a scent-free environment are increasingly vocal. How did we get to this point? How do we strike the balance?

Rochelle:  It’s about educating the consumer…..and the environmentalists on the facts. There is no reason why people cannot wear fragrance, if they wear it properly and it will not disturb anyone or anything. We have all been assaulted by people who wear too much fragrance, fragrance on their clothes and hair. There is the correct way to wear fragrance in the daytime and in the evening and, again, the better educated the consumer, the less flack the industry will get.

Perfume is Pleasure:  I have done work with youth education on scent and believe this is tremendously important. The Foundation has also taken action in this area. What can you share about your goals and progress?

Rochelle:  I think our efforts working with Weekly Reader to bring the appreciation of scent to our school children. We are just completing a project which will go out to over 5,000 public school teachers as a class lesson about scent which encompasses spelling, reading and writing. There are scratch and sniff elements to the program as well as games etc. This is in addition to our annual career day which is for high school students to learn about the opportunities in our industry.

Perfume is Pleasure: How are you seeing the industry innovate to assure that consumers continue to enjoy scent even in today’s challenging economic climate?

Rochelle:  Right now, the industry is in the mode of learning as much as possible about the new consumer, their desires and needs, and how they can remain relevant during these times. We realize that sampling takes on new meaning and smaller sizes are also important. It is a new business model that we all have to understand and accept before forging ahead.

Perfume is Pleasure: What has personally been most satisfying to you as President of the Fragrance Foundation?

Rochelle:  Bringing The Fragrance Foundation into the 21st Century.

Perfume is Pleasure:  Thank you, Rochelle, for sharing your passion for perfume with us. And thank you for your work to promote the health of this great industry.


Fragrance Infotainment

February 9th, 2009

The only thing I love better than smelling perfume is talking about perfume!
A perfume event

Lauradonna.com Launch at Grace Ormonde Grand Bridal Show

February 6th, 2009

lauradonnacom-launch-at-grace-ormonde-grand-bridal-showWhat bride does not want to smell wonderful on her wedding day? Artfully selected fragrance is a great way to start a new life and to share something personal with bridesmaids and wedding guests. Brides at the Grace Ormonde Grand Bridal Show loved the choice of fragrance matchmaking services for ready to wear scents, perfume parties and exquisite custom scents designed note by note, just for them. All-natural options, of course! Environmental scenting is another way to personalize a festive event - I scented the Grand Bridal Show with green tea and lemongrass.  See lauradonna.com on Grace Ormonde’s site for 2009 Platinum Vendors.

Official Grace Ormonde Grand Bridal Show photographer, the talented Matthew J. Wagner,  shared this photo with me.

Perfume and Physical Attraction

February 2nd, 2009

Turns out, perfume is not all fashion and glamor. Research shows that our preferences are biological. Remember Lou Reed’s song from the original motion picture soundtrack of White Nights?

When I see the way you paint your lips and I smell your perfume
When I see the brand new color that you’ve dyed your hair to
I know, you know, it’s more than physical
My love, my love, my love, love is chemical

purchased-blue-green-scientific-fumes-istock_000005078465small2

White Nights featured not only the endearing and iconoclastic tunester Lou Reed, but also the fancy feet of Mikhail Baryshnikov and tap prodigy Gregory Hines. I do not, as you may fear, digress from perfume. Once upon a time, our Russian ballet prodigy launched his own celebrity juice. Now discontinued, Misha Perfume for Women featured topnotes of peach, bergamot and lemon, a heart of jasmine, rose, raspberry, carnation and cinnamon as well as basenotes of vetiver, patchouli and amber.

Other than the simple explanation of chemical attraction, why do we prefer the scents we do? For ourselves? For others? In its December 18, 2008 article, “The scent of a man,” The Economist reported that women in an experimental setting prefer the sweaty t-shirts of men whose major histocompatibility complex (MHC) is most unlike their own. Dr. Manfred Millinski and Dr. Claus Wedekind researched this phenomenon at the University of Bern in 2001.

I am no more interested in science than you, so hang tough with the lingo for a minute. For fellow liberal-artsy types, MHC is good to mix between sex partners, as the children of unions between diverse MHC carriers will have relatively strong immune systems. In cattle terms, women like men who smell like they come from different stock.

Now what do women want from their own perfume? Millinski and Wedekind asked “Would you like to smell like that yourself?” and “Would you like your partner to smell like that?” to tease out the distinctions. Perfume preferences women express for themselves are directly correlated with their own personal flavor of the human leukocyte antigen, or human MHC (last big words I’ll use, promise!). A woman chooses perfume to amplify and broadcast her own genetic composition. But the partner, you recall, should smell of something “other,” not of “self.”

The punchline for perfume shoppers: Buy your own. According to The Economist, we are best equipped to select scent for ourselves and for close blood relatives.


Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Wheel

January 11th, 2009

Take a tour of the fragrance families. This is an excellent first step toward identification of the scents you are most likely to enjoy. Michael Edwards, creator of the wheel below and the world’s foremost expert on fragrance classification, generously invited me to share his work with you.

Click — it’s hot!


Fragrances of the World, 2009, copyright © Michael Edwards.
All rights reserved. Used with permission.


Fickle Fragrance Fashion

December 15th, 2008

Hideous shoes on feet attached to otherwise fabulously turned-out people are sometimes perfect. We imagine that disgusting colors seem right, even those producing eerie flashbacks of refrigerators, Twiggy and Peter Max posters. Given repeated exposure to the latest look, ugly becomes beautiful. We succumb to groupthink and the Emperor is oh-so-chic, new duds or no.

Oh, they're comfortable, really

Arguably, in the case of clothes, the mandate is visible, the standards, clear. We must have those perky, flouncy, unnaturally tight, loose, short, long, bright or dull items in the magazine. We all go along, victims and perpetrators of style. I get it.

What I don’t get is this: Why do so many fragrance shoppers ask for the latest thing? Hand-held computing devices get better. Medical technology gets better, notwithstanding the social and personal dilemmas that result. Admittedly, new aroma chemicals have created perfume possibilities that never existed before. But should we conclude that new, not-yet-improved and highly promoted fragrances are automatically superior to the rest? No.

Pause to consider the subset of folks noticing your scent who will enjoy it more or think better of you if this scent launched in 2009 instead of 2003 or 1956. Do they know or care?


Go for Broke, Alice

December 14th, 2008

My friend Alice has decided to seize the day. Not just today. Every day. She went swimming with turtles in the Galapagos and threw her own 40th birthday party. You would not put your money on Alice in a foot race, but she drives a Jaguar. This, technically, makes her “fast.”

Alice hinted that my blog posts might be getting windy and had the extraordinary perspective to suggest her recent episode with Boucheron Jaipur would liven things up. Jaipur is one of Sophia Grojsman’s creations, a sister of White Linen, Calyx, Paris, Bvlgari Pour Femme, Yvress, Eternity, Trésor, White Diamonds, Beautiful and the new Outrageous, among others. It contains plum, apricot, peach, violet, rose (because Sophia never met a rose she didn’t like), locust-tree, heliotrope, peony, iris, white musk and sandalwood. Nose Jean-Pierre-Mar collaborated with Grojsman on the scent.

Red herring!!! It doesn’t matter what Jaipur smells like, but you should know that this is a perfume with pedigree, just as Alice is a person of great class. Kinda dry sense of humor, sometimes, best not to be the object… But overall, regal, generous, patient, intellectually gifted, a culture maven and great cook.

Alice told me two weeks ago, with great equanimity, that she broke her bottle. “Your Jaipur!” I gasped. “Yes,” I could see her smiling though we spoke by phone. “The one you let me smell?” “Yes.” “The one I loved?” “That one,” Alice said in a consoling voice. I was confused by her reaction - no, by the lack of a reaction, and continued to probe.

Pretty straightforward case, as it happens, of a dropped bottle that broke and did not miraculously heal itself. Additional details did not change the basic outlines of the situation. Glass all over. Perfume all over. A bathroom and walk-in dressing area redolent of Jaipur.

How was Alice coping? “Oh, it’s wonderful! Every time I walk anywhere near it smells just like Jaipur! I don’t even have to spray it on.”

Alice’s perfume bottle is not completely empty. Her bathroom floor is completely full.

Carry on Alice. Go for broke!

P.S. Alice - need 40th birthday party photograph for inquiring readers.