Perfume is Pleasure

You probably have responsibilities: a job, family, house, maybe some other things you need to take care of. Call that “work.” Then there is spare time where you pursue the occasional interest. Start spending a lot of time at it and telling people: “Oh, Saturday mornings I always go _____ ing,” and you’ve got a hobby. Come Saturday night, if you’re still doing it in preference to food, sleep and other essential activities, you are officially obsessed.

But the last condition mentioned is not yours. Yours is the well-balanced life, a pleasant mix of gainful, recreational and community-oriented activity. You enjoy creature comforts in moderation, neither glutton nor snob. A nice meal, a little wine, a light workout, Netflix, pretty dress, new drapes. Sensory stimulation, good, wholesome fun. Once in a while, you enjoy applying fragrance. A little perfume or cologne is uplifting. It feels good.

But always that niggling question: Which one? In 2007, according to Euromonitor, $3.3 billion was spent on fragrances in the U.S. alone. A good percentage of that on bottles opened once, only to sit on the dresser, maybe yours, as the sad reminder of an uninformed choice.

You want a great scent, but where is the fragrance equivalent of The Food Network, Cigar Aficionado or Consumer Reports? Where is someone to tell you the magic words that will send a cosmetics clerk scampering for your perfect scent?

If perfume is already prominent on your radar screen and you’d like to read more about 1,500 of your favorites, read Perfumes: The Guide, a spirited survey by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. See Amazon’s customer reviews for consumer and fragrance industry responses to the authors’ no-holds-barred reviews. To preserve the peace, the French used to say “les goûts et les couleurs ne se discutent pas” a rough mix of “to each his own” and “keep it to yourself.” Luca Turin, whose first guide was published in French, threw that advice out the window long ago.

Maybe you are still lost about finding your next perfume. Before we go further, please decide: Do you seriously want to spend six months or six years learning about top notes, middle notes and base notes, naturals vs. synthetics, dry-down and sillage? Do you see yourself making and trading decants on the Internet? Would you leave a decent paying corporate job to do this full time? Are you crazy?

My recommendation: Leave these expensive and time-consuming pursuits to the perfumistas, denizens of fragrant cyber-spots like Bois de Jasmin, Perfume Smellin’ Things, Sniffapalooza, Vetivresse, Glass Petal Smoke, Perfume Posse, Now Smell This, Scented Salamander and Basenotes. After browsing sites like these, if you remain unconverted, consider yourself an occasional perfume website user. Still wondering about that perfect scent? Skip the next paragraph, but read on.

Having visited the sites above, you no longer view life the same way. I greet you as a brother, sister, friend. Please send me your contact information and receive details of my 12-step program for the likes of us, expected to begin 3rd quarter, 2009.

Take heart. It is reasonable not only to hope for, but also to find a wonderful scent without becoming a fragrance fanatic or researcher. Just as you would hire an accountant, dentist or electrician, you can hire a perfume consultant to ask you the right questions, have you smell some things, do all the thinking and move you quickly to the right bottle. Makes scents, no?

These days, grown women gleefully adorn themselves with eau de cotton candy. Perhaps this does not conform to your standards for olfactory refinement. Still, there’s that urge to pig out without gaining weight. Fear not, Sephora can outfit you with dozens of vanilla variations in a choice of eau de toilette, bath gel or lotion. Decisions, decisions. Do you want your vanilla with a side of mocha, apricot, coconut or grapefruit? My theory on our love affair with vanilla: and the other yummy smells: Name one friend or relative who was ever mugged in a dark alley by a chocolate chip cookie.

Following a playful scuffle over sniffing-rights to my “x-rated” jasmine oil, Kyron, Nate and Jasmine had finally agreed to share when this shot was taken. Along with Yonka, Marnise and Roxie, they almost beat me in an exuberant smell-athon at the Connecticut Youth Forum. It was thrilling to observe the stamina of young people choosing favorites from a large menu of woody, fresh, oriental and floral scents.

Introducing my new friends to the essentials of perfumery was great fun, especially after the jasmine riot ended. The group quickly abandoned my innocuous, sweet-smelling jasmine for a “love it or hate it” version, rich in indoles. Indoles have a decaying animal smell that attracts insects to flowers. Don’t get squeamish; I will spare you further details on indoles. Just promise that you will try to understand as well as these young people how gorgeous they can be as part of a well-constructed perfume.

I delight in conducting sessions like this to help people find scents that bring exquisite pleasure.

We were headed to Montreal for a look at McGill University, since my son David has shown an interest in that school. On the way, we stopped downtown for an errand and got into a parking lot conversation with some friends we hadn’t seen for a while. After we covered college (not my very favorite subject), Helena brought up perfume (my very favorite subject). She had read about my business in the local paper. Naturally, I asked if she wears perfume. “I’m lucky if I floss,” came the reply.

Sad, so sad. When they tell me: “I love it, but I just can’t wear perfume.” I introduced a woman to a scent that captured the best of everything, smells she loved and none that would arouse an allergic response, or so we had hoped.

“Let’s do it!” She was optimistic. “Sure wish I knew more about what might set off a reaction,” I cautioned. ”Do you really want this on your skin?” She insisted and I watched as tiny red bumps emerged on her arm. Thus ended her perfume explorations for the evening.

What is an allergy-prone fragrance lover to do? Aromatic jewelry has a long and sweet-smelling history, documented in a truly gorgeous book by Annette Green and Linda Dyett called Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry. I gasped with delight while gorging on the photos of exotic wearable art.

Last week, Don’t Retire, Rewire author Jeri Sedlar, who encourages career-changers pursuing a passion, introduced me to Cathy Gins, founder and designer of Aromawear. Aromawear is a scent locket offered as a necklace pendant, bracelet or key chain to hold the fine fragrance or essential oils of your choice. Some disperse scent continuously, while others shut tight, only to release the fragrance on command when opened. I get particularly bored by frilly, delicate jewelry and appreciate the clean lines, strong and yet sensual design of Aromawear. Beautiful, even if it didn’t offer olfactory thrills, it comes in gold or silver, up to you.

Of course the severity of headaches and allergies varies greatly by individual, but I believe that aromatic jewelry is a great solution for many. It is also a nice option for folks who want to change their fragrance during the day or want the option to switch it on and off.

To obtain a free and personalized fragrance profile e-mail me a list of your favorite fragrances with manufacturer’s name, if you know it. Of course, I’d love comments on what you’d like to read about in this blog!

My inability to sleep in the middle of the day has always been a sore spot. Even the high-performance motivational types say a short nap may be the best route to those world-changing things I have planned.

On Sundays, in particular, I coldly eye my husband and two sons. Sprawled out all over the house, they rub my nose in their Sabbath peace. Silent, oblivious, effortlessly demonstrating the Art of the Nap. My emotions range from envy to something less charitable. Desperately wishing to be as far out of it as they are, with ill-will towards all, and loudly, I go about important business.

A 1951 book by Paul Jellinek, The Psychological Basis of Perfumery, categorizes scents according to their effects on us: Narcotic, Erotic, Refreshing and Exalting. It has been a long week. The first effect catches my eye. Something to soothe and numb, to induce sleep or stupor. What is not to like?

Into a very small blue bottle, filled almost to the top with jojoba oil, I mix a little essence of amber, rose absolute (the very best Bulgarian type) and a touch of bergamot oil from my friend Bill Luebke at Goodscents Wrists, neck, backs of the hands. Take me away… It has been several months now. Hoping that this public announcement will not break the spell, I share that the potion has worked every time. True, I use it only when fully committed: I will go to that special place. Still, the scent of sleep has not yet failed!

Women have agonized over perfume application forever. Some maybe more than others. Some a lot less. You know the ones who spritzed without scruples. Cleopatra and her barge of rose petals floating up the Cydnus River to Tarsus for the well-planned seduction of Mark Antony. Fragrance-infused sails announced her arrival long before she came into view.

Napoleon Bonaparte would never consider going into battle unscented and liked his women perfumed as well. Every week, he ordered two quarts of violet cologne and somehow managed to consume sixty bottles of jasmine extract monthly. His first wife Josephine reportedly tolerated Napoleon’s tastes, but generally fancied the stronger stuff, musk in particular. Eventually, he shifted his attention to Marie Louise who became his second wife, no doubt because she shared the emperor’s affection for violets. Josephine, in a transitional snit, saturated their boudoir with musk, and the scent lingered for sixty years.

My mother-in-law says: “A little bit is OK, but too much is too much.” This must be a French-Canadian proverb. But what is too much? The Fragrance Foundation of America encourages us to layer our fragrances. We should start with a perfumed soap, bubble bath, cleansing gel or bath oil. Body lotion or cream will follow on damp skin. Continue the ritual with a lavish splash of eau de toilette and finish it off with perfume on pulse points. On a hot day, remember the powder.

But wait! The Foundation instructs us not to dominate our surroundings with perfume. A personal “circle of scent” should extend no further than the length of an arm extended from the body. Be careful that vigorous layering does not extend your personal circle to the entire planet!

How much? There are different schools of thought. I have a wonderful girlfriend, originally from the Mideast. When I meet her after work she smells rich and wonderful - not having applied any fragrance since early morning when she leaves her house. The woman loves perfume. So one time I asked: “How many did you spray?” And she said: “I don’t know, let me think, one, two, three…” And I said: “Eight?” And she said: “Yeah, eight.” Another friend of mine lives to know that people cannot always see her, but know she was there from the scent left in her wake.

Me? I go light. I might spray once, twice, rarely more than three times. Three spritzes, perhaps, of an extremely volatile citrus splash that I know will be gone in a half an hour but I just can’t get enough. I would not use a heavy hand with a rich floral or an oriental fragrance. But many folks do, and I enjoy the wake when they pass.

Many offended by public displays of perfume have organized. See Breathe Free or Die (your source for buttons, magnets, keychains and posters that say: “I’m fragrance free. Help me stay that way!”) or Fragrance Free World. These groups educate and defend the rights of people with multiple chemical sensitivity, migraines, asthma, allergies and other conditions, as well as the soon-to-be “formerly healthy people who’ve been exposed to too many chemicals.” I am torn on this issue. Life and death aside, have you ever tried to eat sushi in the presence of extreme Giorgio? Or watch theater next to Amarige applied without discretion? Don’t.

On the whole, we dwell more on the dangers of perfume over-use than its under-use. A few weeks back I attended a college alumni event, all perfect strangers. Out of decorum, I applied a mightily restrained portion of my chosen scent. To be extra careful, I put it on at four p.m. for the evening event. Champagne, Hors d’oeuvres. Great art. Conversation about fragrance. When asked about mine, I had no evidence. We pawed, we sniffed, but not a trace. Later that evening, on my way out, a woman swept by me wearing the very scent I craved. Filled with melancholy, I left the party, never to make that mistake again.

If the idea of perfume classics intrigues you, read: Here’s the Hottest Secret in Fragrance: Go Back to the Classics! Johanna McGlaughlin, the author, is a perfume expert with a lovely personality. Johanna is a frequent feature-writer at Perfume Reporter. You may discover that you love the stories behind the scents. If it tickles you to know that the perfumer actually had a name and a personality, that some fragrance rocked the culture, why a particular bottle matches the spirit of the juice so very well, what makes this one or that one a “classic” along with details on specific ingredients of the fragrance, Michael Edwards’ Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances is a book for you.